From the Machine - new look 6095

Today has seen a trip to Darn Cheap for some black ponte and sewing up a storm. In fact I am all done and ready for a birthday next week. I know, super organised.

After yesterdays shopping experience with K, I knew exactly what she needed for her wardrobe. A basic black dress that can be trans seasonal, dressed up or down and its stretchy and comfortable. I made it sleeveless that she could pop a cardi over the top or when it gets cooler, a skivvy top and a jacket and tights would give you extra warmth. Would also look good with a denim jacket or sleeveless showing off some jewels.

I used this pattern, New Look 6095 sleeveless and top stitched binding round the arms and neckline. I also ditched the zip as it should be easy to pull on.

What size to make was the big issue and I don't ever make to a size I make to the garments finished size. These can be seen in the picture below the garments measurements for the bust and waist and hip.

These measurements are much better at telling you how big or little a garment will end up. They vary so much between makes and designs that this is the way to make things that fit. Also to forget about the numbers of the size. There is no correlation between this number and any commercial clothes whatsoever!

For myself I will usually make a smaller top to my waist. I also tend to need to take some out of the back to the waist. then from the waist to the hip I drift up a size. Then depending on the pattern, I will drift from the hip point to my thighs or saddle bags another size.

Using these measurements, I made similar adjustments for K, just based on her body. I adjusted the size according to her body, and ran it is a little at the bottom. Where I need an aline to hide my bum, she looks better in a straighter style. Now just to hope it fits. 

Create

We got the creative juices flowing again - well a little here over the weekend. The boys painted some boxes that I got a little while ago. The big squirrel took these pics but he doesn't know how to use the fancy schmancy camera - hence the iso being WAY too high.

I got creative on some long overdue logos for the big squirrel. Digitized on Saturday they seemed to take all Sunday to sew them out - but they look great. Just a few more to do....

Hope you enjoyed your weekend

Sewing Trick - Taking up Jeans

My Mum is full of tricks - especially about sewing. Here is a great one to help taking up jeans or sewing over any thick fabric. She used this little gadget - it is called a 'Button Shank Plate' but is really good for Denim or any thick fabric for that matter.They come with your machine if you have a Husqvuarna so you may already have one, otherwise you can buy them.This little gadget helps you get over the thick lump caused by the seams of the jeans. It stops the cotton looking all cobbled before the seam and creates a more professional look.

• Wind your thicker matching thread onto the bobbin and use a normal matching thread on top.


• Use a new denim needle to make the job a little easier.


• Cut off the excess hem and ensure you fold it over twice - to avoid a raw edge (and create a professional finish)

Once your jeans are pinned to length with the hem folded twice you can start to sew and sew until you get upto the thick seam and stop with the needle down.

At this point you need to lift the foot and slide the 'helper' underneath the foot. The idea is that the 'helper' raises the foot of the machine making it easier to ride over the thickness of the seam. The 'helper' has two different thicknesses at either end, and you need to try to see which one is best for your job. Once you have decided slide it right in until the front of the helper is in line wiht the front of the foot - up against the seam you need to go over. Like this-

Then you put the foot of your machine back down and continue to sew over the seam.

As you can see here, the foot walks off the 'helper' and onto the seam. If the seam isn't too thick you often don't need the 'helper to get back down the hill, however if it is thick like this, sometimes you get a better result if you stick it in at the front and work the instructions in reverse until the foot is off the seam and you are right to continue sewing.

In brief:

• Pin hem with a fold at the top
• Put thick/matching thread in the bobbin so you can sew from inside the leg - much easier.
• Use a new Denim or heavy weight needle- nice and sharp
• Stop sewing when foot reaches thick seam - Needle down
• Lift foot and insert 'helper' from the back. Put foot back down
• Sew over seam
• If needed - lift foot and place helper in from the front
• Sew until over the thick area
• Remove 'helper' and continue sewing.

Happy hemming - this could also be really useful for making bags when you have to go over thick areas.