Sewing Trick - Taking up Jeans

My Mum is full of tricks - especially about sewing. Here is a great one to help taking up jeans or sewing over any thick fabric. She used this little gadget - it is called a 'Button Shank Plate' but is really good for Denim or any thick fabric for that matter.They come with your machine if you have a Husqvuarna so you may already have one, otherwise you can buy them.This little gadget helps you get over the thick lump caused by the seams of the jeans. It stops the cotton looking all cobbled before the seam and creates a more professional look.

• Wind your thicker matching thread onto the bobbin and use a normal matching thread on top.


• Use a new denim needle to make the job a little easier.


• Cut off the excess hem and ensure you fold it over twice - to avoid a raw edge (and create a professional finish)

Once your jeans are pinned to length with the hem folded twice you can start to sew and sew until you get upto the thick seam and stop with the needle down.

At this point you need to lift the foot and slide the 'helper' underneath the foot. The idea is that the 'helper' raises the foot of the machine making it easier to ride over the thickness of the seam. The 'helper' has two different thicknesses at either end, and you need to try to see which one is best for your job. Once you have decided slide it right in until the front of the helper is in line wiht the front of the foot - up against the seam you need to go over. Like this-

Then you put the foot of your machine back down and continue to sew over the seam.

As you can see here, the foot walks off the 'helper' and onto the seam. If the seam isn't too thick you often don't need the 'helper to get back down the hill, however if it is thick like this, sometimes you get a better result if you stick it in at the front and work the instructions in reverse until the foot is off the seam and you are right to continue sewing.

In brief:

• Pin hem with a fold at the top
• Put thick/matching thread in the bobbin so you can sew from inside the leg - much easier.
• Use a new Denim or heavy weight needle- nice and sharp
• Stop sewing when foot reaches thick seam - Needle down
• Lift foot and insert 'helper' from the back. Put foot back down
• Sew over seam
• If needed - lift foot and place helper in from the front
• Sew until over the thick area
• Remove 'helper' and continue sewing.

Happy hemming - this could also be really useful for making bags when you have to go over thick areas.